You’ve really gotta hand it to Hugo’s Cellar.  In spite of (or perhaps because of) being mired in the basement of the living Diane Arbus photo that is the Four Queens Hotel and Casino, it remains one of Las Vegas’ great old-school dining establishments.

Sure, you’ve got to make your way through the casino floor of one of Downtown’s remaining paeans to dinginess – with its bizarrely too bright light that perfectly showcases the herd of customers who haven’t quite wrapped their collective heads around the concept that belly shirts shouldn’t be worn by anyone with a belly – and then descend down the half-flight of stairs with its carpet that no amount of Febreze will ever make fresh; but once you enter, it’s a flashback to another era in fine dining, in all the best ways.

For starters, every woman is presented with a long-stemmed red rose when first escorted to the table.  There’s even a vase on every table in which to hold it/them.

But it’s the tableside service that really makes Hugo’s worth getting into.  The Hugo’s Table-side Salad is made, on a rolling cart, to each patron’s specifications; with guests getting to select which of the ingredients (including romaine lettuce, peeled tomato wedges, marinated artichokes and hearts of palm, sliced mushrooms, bleu cheese crumbles, toasted croutons, chopped eggs, red onions, and bay shrimp) and which dressing (Caesar, creamy pepper, or honey-walnut vinaigrette) are desired.

There’s a sorbet intermezzo, and after the (invariably fantastic) entrées are cleared, a selection of strawberries, apricots, and baby figs dipped in white and dark chocolate are served with fresh cream.

Finally, it’s just not a night at Hugo’s without one of the sensational flambéed deserts – Bananas Foster and Cherries Jubilee – prepared to order, by your headwaiter, as you watch.

Sure, it’s nothing new; but in this case, isn’t that the point?

Hugo’s Cellar
Four Queens Hotel and Casino
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