Mention Chasen’s, Perino’s, or Romanoffs to someone alive in the ‘50s, and you’re certain to evoke images of the Golden Age of the silver screen, as well as the stars who made-up its insular universe.  And while that holy trinity of Hollywood hot-spots is no longer with us, their spirit lives on – in Las Vegas, at The Barrymore.

Located at the newly refurbished Royal Resort, on Convention Center Drive, The Barrymore is the latest venture from the dynamic duo of Block 16 Hospitality, impresario Billy Richardson, Jr., and Chef Anthony Meidenbauer.

Fast becoming the Keith McNally of Las Vegas, Richardson is the mullet-sporting monster truck-driving man behind LBS Burger Joint at Red Rock Casino Resort & Spa, Pink’s Hot Dogs at Planet Hollywood Resort & Casino, Holsteins Shakes and Buns at The Cosmopolitan of Las Vegas, and the LBS Patty Wagon mobile catering truck. 

I knew I’d love it the minute I first laid eyes on the retro logo, bringing to mind the best of vintage Vegas and mid-century modern aesthetic, not to mention the name conjuring that grandest of American theatrical dynasties.  But hey – I’m a snob.  And the proof, as they say, is in the pudding.

And what pudding!  Jacob and I met our friends there, for lunch, on Sunday.  It was terrific.  We had a trio of salads, including the Barrymore Chopped (greens, pecorino cheese, salami, roasted peppers, tomato, chick peas and red wine vinaigrette), the Bibb & Hearts of Palm (tomato Carpaccio, hardboiled egg and Champagne vinaigrette), and an especially tasty Tuna Niçoise (new potato, haricots verts, tomato, egg and Nicoise olives topped with olive oil, packed Spanish tuna and Dijon dressing) and a hearty French Onion Gratin, as well as a juicy Steakhouse Burger (grass-fed beef patty, bacon marmalade, Gruyere cheese, frisée, oven-roasted tomatoes & garlic aioli) and a Lomo de Cerdo (roasted pork loin, grilled green chili peppers, manchego cheese, and garlic aioli, on a toasted baguette).

It was so terrific, in fact, that when my Dad (whom I hadn’t seen since he’d returned from his most recent overseas sojourn) phoned, and asked if we were free for dinner, we immediately suggested The Barrymore, because if it was at least as good for dinner as it was for lunch, he was about to be a very happy camper (since he lives within walking distance).

Well, apparently dinner is when the gloves really come off.  I had what is among the city’s most spectacular variations on Steak Tartare (chopped prime loin of beef, garlic-Dijon aioli, capers, shallots, and lemon crème fraîche with an olive tapenade and grilled country bread), Jacob had the Caesar, and Dad had the “remarkably good” Roasted Artichoke (salsa verde, parmesan cheese, and extra virgin olive oil).  We were also unanimously pleased with our entrees, all of us choosing bounties of the sea – for Jacob, the Pan-Seared Salmon (roasted fennel, bouillabaisse broth and saffron rouille); for Dad, the Seared Ahi (creamy polenta and porcini ragout with braised greens and pinot noir reduction); and for me, the Fisherman Stew (tomato seafood broth, white fish, mussels, and shrimp).

And so, for the second time in as many days we arose from our plush banquette, and waddled contentedly out to our car (after perusing the cozy outside patio and fireside lounge).  All that remains for me now, is breakfast and late-night lounging.  I knew the minute I noticed that the fish in Dad’s entrée was not called “Ahi Tuna” that they had me as a patron for life.  What can I say?  I’m a stickler for the details.  And at The Barrymore, they’ve attended to all of them. 

The Barrymore at the Royal Resort
99 Convention Center Drive
Click HERE for menus and more info

Get into it!