One Man’s “Gotta” Is Another Man’s “Eh?”

(03/26/2010)

China Club Jacob
Jacob at the China Club

I have a few more things to say about Hong Kong before I get back to my Vegas beat.  First and foremost is that one should never build things up to a point that they cannot measure.  Second, is that while we value the views of our friends (I seek mine out, in earnest) – these should never eclipse one’s own opinions.  (That said – feel free to take everything I opine as Gospel…).  There are a number of other things, but let’s focus on this concept as it relates to a pair of specific incidents and venues.

China Club dining room
The dining room at the China Club

Right off the bat, it had all the makings of what should have been a Shulmaniscious delight.  The China Club is a Hong Kong institution – a very exclusive, members-only joint (bringing to mind that great line of Roz Russell’s in Auntie Mame “Exclusively what and restricted to whom?  I’ll get a blood test…”).  Entering the venue put me in mind of a modern-day Dorothy Gale, looking at Jacob and remarking “Homo, we’re not in Vegas, anymore.” It was as if, like Alice, we had gone through the looking-glass, only the glass reflected into 1930s Shanghai (á la a ten year old Shanghai Tang catalogue, only without the signature “ginger flower” scent).

China Club Décor
China Club décor

Founded in 1991 by Sir David Tang, the China Club is located on the top three floors of the Old China Bank Building and was opened three years before Tang launched his fashion company (which he sold in 1998 to Richemont).  Now, this is not to say that the restaurant in question was not lovely – it was.  Nor that the food was bad – it wasn’t.  It’s just that it fell far short of this transcendental feast for the eyes and stomach that I had envisioned for years. 

China Club Tea2
The Tea Master demonstrates the over-the-shoulder pour at the China Club

Everyone (and I mean everyone) whose opinions I’d sought-out before heading to Hong Kong had told me that it was a must.  Well, everyone that is, except for my parents, both of whom gave me the same response, when pressed separately for details; namely, a shrug, a slight tilting of the head, and a squint, combined with a monosyllabic sound amounting to “Eh?” They’d been about a decade ago (when still in its ex-pat heyday) and were underwhelmed, even then.  But I’m still under the apparent misconception that I know better than they do.  By the way, in case you’re wondering how we even got in the door, I was able to get a reservation through the American Express Centurion Concierge.  They couldn’t help me with my Chinese Visa situation, but they could get me a table at the China Club.  “Finally!” exclaimed my father.  “You’ve found something this farkacht card is actually good for!”

So, like I said, it was fine.  But for all the hoopla I’ve heard about this joint for the past however-many years, I wanted a whole lot more than fine.  I wanted glamour and razzle-dazzle and pizzazz.  I wanted “Ta-Dah!”  I guess that’s one of the drawbacks of living La Vida Vegas, is that our dining and nightlife venues are so gorgeous and over-the-top, that merely running with a theme just doesn’t do it for me.  And Lord knows I do love a theme. 

China Club Chicken
Sautéed Chicken Nuggets with Garlic, Ginger and Spring Onion in Clay Pot

China Club Beef
Sautéed Dices of Angus Beef with Deep-fried Garlic Flakes (Guang Dong)

Now, there were some high points.  The Sautéed Dices of Angus Beef Fillet with Deep-fried Garlic Flakes (Guang Dong) was moist, succulent, and beautifully seasoned, as was the Sautéed Chicken Nuggets with Garlic, Ginger and Spring Onion in Clay Pot.

China Club Singer
China Club singer and band

All of the food came-out quickly (almost too quickly, but that could just be me), the booth was comfortable (albeit situated by a bussing station), the Tea Master was cool with his long-pour kettle, and David Tang’s collection of Chinese art was pretty major.  My favorite part, though, was definitely the singer and her band.  They added that essential flair of authenticity that canned music just cannot capture for a supper-club vibe.  Plus, she had a great voice!   

China Club Peninsula Tea
Afternoon Tea at the Peninsula Hong Kong

Along these same lines of things we “had to do” while in Hong Kong, upon the insistence of my grandmother, we took Afternoon Tea at The Peninsula (although, in lieu of tea, Jacob and I opted for the Peninsula Signature Cappuccino and Peninsula Signature Iced Chocolate, respectively).  And while it reminded me of her – which is something I always enjoy – the experience itself could never live-up to its lead-in.  Again, there was nothing wrong with it, per se (except for the line that snaked through The Lobby consisting of poorly dressed tourists waiting for a spot of tea and a crumpet, which Jake and I stood in for precisely 15 seconds before I had the fantastic idea of taking our tea in The Bar).  Oh well, I guess “being touristy” for me in Hong Kong equated to taking Tea at The Peninsula, dining at the China Club and clubbing at Dragon I.  In retrospect, I found none of the three to be all that great – but I’m glad I experienced them, so I can check them off my list.  Been there, etc… Lucky for us, we had some locals looking-out for our interests, too.  But more on that, next time!

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EmailEmail   CommentsComments (2)
Been there: 1959!
Brings back the time when I spent a week in Hong Kong in Jan.,1959. What a great place it was THEN! Everything was a bargain and non-touristy. I stayed at the Peninsula for about $20 per night. And had seven course gourmet meals for about $3.50! Also enjoyed the very authentic British Tea Service.Delightful. Shopping was a blast: a tailor made cashmere suit for $50, and tailor made shirts for $5. What a life! Went back to Hong Kong about 1984. What a change. Still enjoyed it , but not the same.Shopping was still great, but not the bargain. Also, some very fine restaurants, but expensive. Yet I recommend everyone see Hong Kong at least once. Bon Voyage!
By Victor


Been there: 1959!
Brings back the time when I spent a week in Hong Kong in Jan.,1959. What a great place it wast THEN! Everything was a bargain and non-touristy. I stayed at the Peninsula for about $20 per night. And had seven course gourmet meals for about $3.50! Also enjoyed the very authentic British Tea Service.Delightful. Shopping was a blast: a tailor made cashmere suit for $50, and tailor made shirts for $5. What a life! Went back to Hong Kong about 1984. What a change. Still enjoyed it , but not the same.Shopping was still great, but not the bargain. Also, some very fine restaurants, but expensive. Yet I recommend everyone see Hong Kong at least once. Bon Voyage!
By Victor

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