While not a big fan of high French cuisine, I’m a huge proponent of the dishes served in French bars, bistros, and brasseries.  So, when I was invited to try-out Chef Michael Mina’s new BARDOT Brasserie, at ARIA Resort & Casino, I leapt at the chance.

I was immediately taken with the attention paid to the décor, which – with its polished dark woods, tiled floors, and amber lighting – perfectly hit the mark for which Mina was aiming (the 1920 cafés of Paris’ Left Bank that were frequented by Papa Hemingway).  In fact, it reminded me of a longtime NY fave, Keith McNally’s Balthazar – only with a more flattering lighting story and more comfortable seating!

I was also impressed with the simple menu; and we managed to eat our way through quite a bit of it.  So, let’s get to it!  We started with the Prime Steak Tartare (with sauce verte, organic egg, and gaufrette potatoes), and the Escargot Bardot (with warm hazelnuts, chartreuse butter, and puff pastry).  Both were just the way I like ‘em: The tartare was zesty (they aren’t shy with the Lea & Perrins); while the escargots were light, flaky, and not the least bit rubbery.

Moving right along, we sampled some Fruits de Mer (chilled lobster and King crab) that was so fresh I forgot to use any of the dipping sauces (there were three presented with the seafood platter), and y’all know that I’m all about a good sauce.  Then came the Tarte Flambée (with caramelized onions, cave-aged gruyère, bacon lardons) and the Onion Soup Gratinée.  The tarte was sublime, and while I still don’t know what lardons are, but I’m guessing they feature prominently on my food pyramid.  As for the soup, it was warm and rich and dripping with cheesy goodness.  YUM!

Then came our entrees, and they were lovely!  The Parisian Gnocchi (with wild mushrooms, goat cheese, and roasted garlic) was a departure from its Italian cousin, replacing the potato dumplings with a pastry crust that made for a plateful of light and crispy morsels.  And Le Steakburger (with a prime rib patty, comté cheese, garlic aïoli, watercress, bordelaise onions, and hand-cut fries) – well, the mere mention of it has set my mouth a’watering.  It was juicy and flavorful and everything you’d want from a gourmet burger.

Finally, it was time for dessert.  We’d consciously asked for half of our entrees to go; just to ensure we’d saved room for dessert – and I’m so glad we did, because they were wonderful!  After sipping my Espresso-Doble, we started with the Lemon Meringue Tart (with market citrus and fresh berries).  There’s nothing worse than a namby-pamby lemon dessert – whether a bar, cake, pie, or pastry – except perhaps one that’s so bitter you wince.  Happily this was neither too sweet nor too tart; nimbly toeing the line between the two.  We followed the tart with the Crème Caramel.  Now, never a fan of things too “eggy” I tend to steer clear of custards, flans, and the like; but this, this was like eating a creamy, caramel-flavored cloud!  And we really dug the decorative spun-sugar web.  Then, it was the moment of truth – as our server presented the Apple Tarte Tatin (with warm caramelized apples, puff pastry, and vanilla ice cream).  Well, I’m delighted to say that BARDOT Brasserie serves one heckuva delicious Tarte Tatin.  I’d even go so far as to describe it as sublime.  Simply put – it was perfect.  I’d even enter it into a blind taste-test alongside that of Maxim’s! 

Chef Mina and BARDOT’s executive chef Josh Smith have scored tens-across-the-board with their upscale take on French comfort food.  Word is they’ve even begun serving brunch, on Saturday and Sunday.  I know where I’ll be, this weekend!

Michael Mina presents BARDOT Brasserie
ARIA Resort & Casino
Click HERE for info

Get into it!