Something’s in the water, at Caesars Palace, and it’s fabulous!  First they swap-out the old Bernini boutique, for the Todd-Avery Lenahan-designed FIZZ (easily the chicest venue in town).  Then they convert the long-in-the-tooth Centurion Tower to the boutique-y Nobu Hotel, and install the world’s largest Nobu Restaurant at its base.  Then they closed-down the Cypress Street Marketplace, and reopened it as the Forum Food Court (complete with SmashBurger, Earl of Sandwich, La Gloria, and DiFara Pizza, among others).  As if all of that wasn’t enough, the Hakkasan Group shuttered erstwhile nightlife venue, PURE; only to have it reemerge, a year later, as the spectacular OMNIA Nightclub.  And, timed to coincide with the OMNIA opening, came the debut of Searsucker Las Vegas, from Chef Brian Malarkey (of Top Chef-fame).*

A couple weeks back, I was going with my friend, Sean, to opening night of Mariah Carey’s new residency at The Colosseum, #1 to Infinity.  Since we were going to be at Caesars, I figured it was an ideal opportunity to try out Chef Malarkey’s singular form of gourmet comfort food.  We allowed ourselves two hours before curtain – which was just long enough for us to eat ourselves to the brink of a food coma – which made bopping to Miss Carey more comfortably done from a seated position.  But, I don’t regret a single morsel.

I had to actually force myself to stop filling-up on the Cheddar Puffers (which is an upmarket version of what I’d imagine those Cheddar Bay Biscuits at Red Lobster to be), because they were just so good!  The Duck Fat Fries are prepared with Prosciutto Dust and Parmesan, and are everything you could want if you’re on a mission to clog your arteries.  And while the Chipotle Ketchup is good, I recommend ordering a side of the Bacon Emulsion Aioli (aka Bacon Mayo!!!), and combining the two for an absolutely exquisite French Fry Sauce!

There is something special about the Brie “Triple” + Strawberry Jam, that comes to your table in its own skillet.  The mix of tart and sweet set my heart beating (straining to get through the arterial plaque, I’d imagine), and my only regret was that the portion wasn’t larger.

I so enjoyed the Squid “Sweet Heat” that when Sean told me that he didn’t care for seafood, I let out a whoop that echoed across the room.  Lose any preconceived notion of rubbery calamari, as Malarkey’s strips of fried squid are tender and bursting with flavor.  Meanwhile, each and every bite of the Toast + Cheese + Tomato Soup was another bite closer to a rich, crispy and gooey culinary Nirvana; to the extent that the next time I’m home, in bed, with the flu – rest assured that I’m sending Postmates to fetch me some (along with an order of that Brie “Triple” +Strawberry Jam).

The Beef Tartare + Pickled Radish + Beer Mustard + Yolk was lean and seasoned nicely; the Crab Cake Jumbo Lump + Fennel + Lemon Verbena Aioli was light on the filler and big on the flavor; and the Pork Butt with Whiskey Apples + Bacon Emulsion was so tender we never used our knives!

I’m ashamed to admit that by the time our server (Justin, from Minnesota, by way of the Searsucker in San Diego) brought our desserts, I was only able to muster the appetite to eat a bite or two (or three) of each; but the winner was that “Ermahgerd” Sundae (peanut butter gelato, peanut coffee “rocks”, caramel, brownies, and brûléed banana) .  Wow.  Just, wow. Not that the S’mores Bar (graham, salted caramel ganache, honey chocolate mousse, marshmallow, chocolate ice cream, and cookie crumble) was anything to sneeze at; nor were those delicious Chocolate Chip Cookies (which I took to go, in case my blood sugar dropped, on that long trek to The Colosseum).  But the “Ermahgerd” Sundae certainly lives up to its name.

So, if you’re the type of person who derives pleasure from eating, make your reservation at Searsucker, now.  And for those of you who might need to soak-up some of whatever you’ve imbibed, before you get behind the wheel; Searsucker serves its Late Night Menu, Thursdays through Sundays, from 11pm - Late.  And that ain’t no malarkey!

Searsucker Las Vegas
Caesars Palace
Click HERE for info

Get into it!

[* EDITOR’S NOTE:  Since I sat down to write this essay, Caesars Palace and the Hakkasan Group have transformed yet another space.  To wit, the venue formerly known as Shadow Bar has been reborn as the swanky Vista Cocktail Lounge.  But more on that, in a week or two…]