I was barely a year old, when Sirio Maccioni opened the now-legendary Le Cirque, in its original location, at New York’s posh Mayfair Hotel. Between the time I spent growing-up in New York, and being an avid reader of the books of Dominick Dunne, it was only logical that Le Cirque was more than a mere blip on my radar. It was the white-hot center of the Universe, if that universe was the one chronicled in the columns of Suzy, Cindy Adams, and Liz Smith.
When Bellagio opened in Las Vegas, in 1998, I reckon that having Le Cirque as the anchor of the fine dining program was as necessary to Steve Wynn’s vision as was having Chanel on the Via Bellagio. It immediately raised the bar on Las Vegas dining. But what makes Le Cirque a bit different from most of Las Vegas’ other upscale restaurants is that the name that brings guest back time and again is not that of the chef, but rather the restaurateur.
The room is a jewel box of a restaurant. As a matter of fact, when my brother got married and my folks were looking for a place to host the “morning after” brunch, I immediately turned to Mario Maccioni, who put together one of the most gorgeous brunches ever. That room, flooded with sunlight, and the Fountains of Bellagio going off, outside. Perfection. But I digress…
This past Saturday, Audra Hendley threw her bachelorette party, and the evening began with dinner for ten, at Le Cirque at Bellagio. (I know… Swanky, right?) To make the most of the experience, Audra had arranged with the restaurant that everyone would create their own personal Dégustation Menu, by selecting four items from the À La Carte Menu.
For me, this meant La Salade de Homard (signature lobster and avocado salad with black truffle vinaigrette); then La Salade au Poulpe Méditerranéen (Mediterranean octopus salad with summer gem greens, grapefruit and yellow curry, baby corn, haricots verts, lemon balm, and jalapeño vinaigrette). These were followed by Sole a la Grenobloise (Dover sole, roasted lemon, capers and pine nuts, soft polenta, and chanterelles), and my favorite Poulet Rôti Contiser à la Truffe Noire (organic roasted chicken, black truffle, and macaroni au fois gras).
Why is the chicken my favorite? Because it’s friggin amazing; that’s why. During the preparation, the skin is lifted from the chicken, long enough to insert a layer of razor-thin black truffle shavings, before the skin is replaced. Then it’s roasted, infusing the chicken with the rich taste of the truffles. What’s more, the truffles make the skin nice and crispy. Sounds simple, right? It’s not. (I’ve tried.)
For dessert, a variety of soufflés was presented (including vanilla, Grand Marnier, chocolate, and strawberry). Then, Chef Gregory Pugin came to the table carrying an enormous three-tiered chocolate display that had been inspired by Hermès handbags (a tribute to Hendley’s love for the choice accessories). After this, General Manager Ivo Angelov showed us the special assortment of chocolates that each guest would receive, explaining that they were all aphrodisiacs (it was a bachelorette party, after all); adding with a grin that they should only be eaten with caution.
As a parting remembrance, each guest was given a chocolate handbag, embossed with a crocodile pattern. Talk about detail! Is it any wonder, then, that Le Cirque at Bellagio has received AAA’s coveted Five Diamond Award, for nine consecutive years?
Le Cirque
Bellagio
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