Jean-Georges Hits the High Notes at ARIA

(08/24/2010)

Jean Georges Steakhouse at ARIA

I figured it was high time that I got around to checking out the dining options at Aria at CityCenter. When I attended the opening of the megaresort last fall, I found it amusing that a trio of the fine dining establishments (helmed by such gastronomic greats as Sirio Maccioni, Jean-Georges Vongerichten and Michael Mina) were all located upstairs on the Promenade Level, on a culinary cul-de-sac of sorts. Rather like a very high-end food court! Meanwhile, I’d heard great things about those three fine-dining offerings (Sirio Ristorante, Jean Georges Steakhouse, and American Fish, respectively). So, when I received an invitation to dine at Jean Georges Steakhouse, last week, I jumped at the opportunity.

Cherry Yuzu Soda

Upon arrival, I was delighted to find my old friend, Michael McGraw, helming the front of the house. Always a convivial sort, Michael showed me into the dramatic bar where I hopped upon a stool and waited for my friends. Since I was 20 or so minutes early, I ordered a drink – the effervescently refreshing Cherry Yuzu Soda.

Bar at Jean Georges Steakhouse

Now, since it’s a Jean Georges restaurant, you just know it’s gonna be good – nay, great. It’s just the degree of culinary greatness that’s an issue. For instance, I’ve been a fan of Mercer Kitchen in New York, since it opened; and rather enjoy that city’s Spice Market (which reminds me of the New York version of the Las Vegas version of a North African restaurant – if that makes any sense). On the other hand, I always found Prime at Bellagio to be a bit stuffy (although the men’s room is among the most magnificent in town, what with the inlaid lapis lazuli floor). Don’t get me wrong – the food is wonderful, and the view is lovely, but the experience (after having been spoiled by this town for so long) is just kind of blah…

Wine Room at Jean Georges Steakhouse

So, I was delighted to find that in addition to the food being up to snuff, with portions slightly larger and costs slightly lower than those at Prime – which stands to reason when comparing the Bellagio customer with that of Aria – the décor was snazzy, the service attentive, and the experience: not blah, at all!

Anyhoo, about the food… The Watermelon Gazpacho with Red Pepper and Basil was simultaneously refreshing and spicy – like a fruity, pulpy version of a Bloody Mary served in a demitasse. The Burrata was lovely. The Steak Tartare was lean and about twice the size of that at Prime (also, a bit zestier). My Kobe Cheeseburger was among the best in town (as well it should have been), while my friends – who both had the Chilean Sea Bass – enjoyed their entrees wholeheartedly. The little Comte Fritters with Black Truffles were just beyond, and the Lemon Meringue Tart achieved that delicious balance between bitter and sweet without falling too far over the line in either direction.