Recently, I had a couple of discerning steakhouse habitués in town, for Super Bowl LVIII, and realized it was the perfect opportunity for me to check out Don’s Prime at Fontainebleau Las Vegas; the new resort’s upscale old-school steakhouse, named in tribute to Donald Soffer, the father of Fontainebleau Development Chairman/CEO, Jeffrey Soffer.  I thought it was great; and a week later, they’re still kvelling about it!

Upon entering the restaurant, I immediately clocked the uniforms, which—sourced by a company based in the United Kingdom—brought to mind the crimson velvet suit designed by Tom Ford for Gucci’s Fall/Winter 1996 collection, made famous when Gwenyth Paltrow wore it to that year’s MTV Awards.  [The suit was revived by Alessandro Michele in his 2021 “Aria” collection in the Italian luxury house’s centennial year.]  

In fact, the restaurant itself was ‘dressed’ by London’s David Collins Studio, to the proverbial nines, in lush jewel tones—think: heliodor in the bar, with the three railroad-style dining rooms done in emerald, lazurite, and garnet, respectively; while in the private dining room (which seats ten), the deep green, blue, and red tones are used in concert—which, offset by brass and marble, with flattering amber lighting, makes a strong statement of plush elegance imbued with equal parts glamour and comfort.  After all, as Gabrielle Chanel once intoned, “Luxury must be comfortable; otherwise, it is not luxury.”

Our servers, James and Roberto, were exactly who you’d want guiding you through a meal at a high-end steakhouse.  To wit, charming, knowledgeable, and attentive, without making a big deal about it.  After introducing themselves, they got to it, with Roberto taking our drink orders; and James presenting a platter featuring the various cuts of beef being offered that evening; then taking our dinner orders.

Now, just to get you up to speed, before joining the culinary team at Fontainebleau Las Vegas in 2023, Chef Patrick Munster—executive chef, Don’s Prime—earned accolades for his work at the Eiffel Tower inside Paris Hotel & Casino, and at SW Steakhouse at Wynn Las Vegas (where he held the title of Chef de Cuisine under Chef David Walzog); followed by stints at Bottiglia Cucina & Enoteca at Green Valley Ranch Resort, Spa, and Casino, and at MB at Hard Rock Hotel & Casino; after which he helmed the kitchen at Main St. Provisions in Downtown Las Vegas, during which time he was honored by EATER Las Vegas as “Chef of the Year” in The 2022 EATER Awards.

We began with the Jumbo Lump Crab Cake (with shaved fennel and a basil tartare sauce), which was so packed with enormous pieces of juicy crab meat that we joked about the seeming lack of filler.  It was pan-fried to perfection and will be a serious contender if anyone ever rates this city’s best crab cakes.    Meanwhile, my Iceberg Wedge (with smoked bacon lardons, buttermilk bleu cheese crumbles, and fantastic tomato ranch dressing) tasted even better than it looked, and it looked gorgeous. 

As our entrees, they opted for steaks—a beautiful 22oz. Dry-aged Bone-in Ribeye, and a tender 12oz Filet Mignon (both cuts à la Pat LaFrieda, the esteemed, fourth-generation New York/New Jersey purveyor of fine meats)—whilst I went with the Oven Braised Gnocchi (with tomato, parmesan, and mozzarella) which, beyond being al dente Italian potato-dumplings in a zestily-seasoned sauce, also proved to be fantastic out of my fridge, at 2AM.

And to accompany our entrees, we selected a quartet of sides, including the Roasted Wild Mushrooms (with confit garlic butter) and the Creamed Spinach (with fried egg)—neither of which is really my jam, but my friends loved them, and said the spinach with egg was the best spinach dish they’d ever had—as well as the Butter Whipped Potatoes (with chives) which evoked those made by the late Chef Joël Robuchon (read: butter, lots and lots of butter; but so good), and the Potato Gratin (with a trio of cheeses) that were kept under the salamander long enough to toast and brown the top to a rich, gooiness that was nice and crispy around the edges.

Suffice it to say that we were so stuffed after this that upon being served the Cheesecake we’d ordered for dessert (just one, with three spoons) we were barely able to eat it.  We did, but it required a concerted effort, and in one case, an unbuttoning of the pants; though, if there’s a better condition in which to end such a terrific meal, it escapes me.

OUR MENU

Starters
JUMBO LUMP CRAB CAKE basil tartare sauce, shaved fennel
ICEBERG WEDGE smoked bacon, roasted tomato ranch, buttermilk blue
OVEN BRAISED GNOCCHI mozzarella, tomato, parmesan (as an entrée)

Entrées
DRY-AGED BONE-IN RIBEYE 22oz
FILET MIGNON 12oz

Sides
ROASTED WILD MUSHROOMS confit garlic butter
CREAMED SPINACH fried egg
BUTTER WHIPPED POTATOES chives
POTATO GRATIN trio of cheese

Don’s Prime
Fontainebleau Las Vegas
Click HERE for info

Get into it!
#FBLV