Capo’s Combines Cosa Nostra Kitsch with Old-Country Cuisine

Nico Santucci

Last night, my Dad and I decided to try Capo’s Italian Steakhouse, on West Sahara.  Longtime fans of restaurateur Nico Santucci’s already established Italian joint of the same name on West Tropicana, once Dad suggested it, we figured we just couldn’t refuse.  This restaurant is just fun (kitschy fun, to be sure, but fun, all the same).  And the food’s damned good, to boot!

It all starts upon arrival, with the speakeasy factor of ringing the bell, having a painting swing open to reveal the head of the maitre d’ pop, and then having an entire wall complete with phone-booth open into a very dark room.  It’s so dark, in fact; that the only light source seems to be emanating from an aquarium in which lurks a lone eel – whose presence is both creepy and sexy.

The room is hung with small crystal chandeliers over each booth, which - with the funky black-on-black flocked damask wallpaper – manages to avoid Goth in favor of Prohibition-era Chicago.

Capo's Italian Steakhouse

The menu is very tongue-in-cheek and comprehensive.  Proliferated with entries like the “Bust a Cap” (mushroom caps), “The Chef Sleeps with Fishes” (Jumbo Shrimp, sun-dried tomatoes, and Prosciutto in a garlic cream sauce and served over Fettuccini), and “Angels with Dirty Faces” (Cappellini with peas, mushrooms, and Pepperoni, tossed with Capo’s pink sauce).

Nico's Caesar with Grilled Chicken Breast

We ordered a couple starters, a couple salads, and an entrée, and shared it all.  We began with “The Mob’s Meatball Salad” – a Caesar salad, tossed with Rigatoni, Provolone cheese, croutons, tomatoes, peppers, topped with a homemade meatball and sugo sauce.  While a most peculiar combination, it totally works!  We were both impressed and gobbled it up.  Then we were served “Nico’s Caesar” with grilled chicken breast.  A nice and simple Caesar salad, it was very fresh and crisp.  I personally like my Caesar’s with a strong, garlicky dressing, but you can’t fault a place for letting the fresh food speak for itself.  Also, the grilled chicken was quite tender.

Bogey's Bruscetta

Our second course consisted of the “Bogey’s Bruscetta” (a blend of fresh tomatoes, basil, grated cheese, pesto, and olive oil, served with Italian Crustinis) and “Meat Balls and Peppers” (Capo’s homemade Italian meatballs, sautéed with Italian peppers and homemade sugo sauce).  The crustinis were delicious, with just enough butter and garlic to make them worthy of a raised brow.  The tomatoes and pesto combined with the olive oil and basil to make a wonderful topping.  As for the meatballs – they were served piping hot with a sauce with sass (thanks to some spicy peppers).

Meat Balls and Peppers

Our entrée was the “Rat Pack Pesto” which consisted of pounded pieces of grilled chicken, fresh tomatoes and garlic in a creamy pesto sauce, served over Linguini.  It was really good, with the tomatoes popping-up in the pesto and saying “Buona Sera!”

Hidden Door entree

Our server and busser were attentive and friendly, and the maitre d’ was nothing short of charming.  The singer wasn’t the best, but he certainly did nothing to detract from our enjoyment.

So, as Clemenza instructs in The Godfather: “Leave the gun, take the canollis!”

Capo’s Italian Steakhouse
5675 West Sahara Avenue
(702) 364-CAPO

Get into it!