I’ve just returned from three weeks of being on the road, and I’ve got a whole lot of catching-up to do, so I’m gonna jump right in with my recent New York trip. 

Papier-mâché monkey hanging from the ceiling of the vestibule at Shun Lee West

I spend quite a bit of time in New York, but on my most recent trip, I was feeling a little bit wistful, thinking about how different New York is today, versus when I lived there in the ‘90s (not to mention when I was growing-up, there, in the ‘80s).

So, I decided that while I was in the City, I was going to dine at restaurants that had served me well over the years.  I get enough of “the latest thing” here in Las Vegas.  Instead, I wanted to return to some old haunts, and I’m so glad I did. 

Michael Tong of Shun Lee

First, I had dinner with my friends Delilah Rothenberg and Spencer Wang at Shun Lee West.  Michael Tong (who, as luck would have it, happens to be Spencer’s godfather) opened Shun Lee Palace in the early ‘70s on the Upper East Side, and in the early ‘80s opened the location near Lincoln Center.  With its glamorous papier-mâché dragons curving around the ceiling of the main dining room, and monkeys in the bar, Shun Lee West has been a favorite of mine for decades.  The restaurant was busy, and I was taught how to say “Thank you” in Mandarin (it’s xie xie, in case you were wondering). 

The Shun Lee Cookbook

Highlights of the meal included Hot and Sour Soup, Grand Marnier Prawns (jumbo prawns coated with water-chestnut flour, cooked till crispy, then sautéed in a Grand Marnier sauce.  Served with broccoli and honey walnuts), and Chan-Do Chicken (crispy chicken nuggets marinated with five spices, then sautéed with ginger, garlic, scallions, and green peppers).

The Dining Room at Indochine

Next, was Indochine, with my pal Andrew Zarnett.  I’ve always loved Indochine, and always request a booth along the far wall, toward the back (you’re secluded, but maintain a great view of everyone else’s comings and goings).  This is important, because while the Vietnamese cuisine is a pretty solid B+, Jean-Marc Houmard provides his guests with people-watching that is invariably an A (even at 7pm on a rainy Wednesday).  The restaurant, one of the only social-intersections for the denizens of both Vanity Fair and PAPER, just celebrated its first quarter-century with a fantastic book.

Indochine: Stories, Shaken and Stirred

Highlights of the meal included Spicy Beef Salad (thinly sliced filet of beef with basil, mint, lemongrass, crisp shallots, and spicy oil-free dressing), Fried Spring Rolls (with chicken, vegetables, and glass vermicelli), and Steamed Chilean Sea Bass (marinated in a black bean chili paste with a sesame, ginger soy broth on a bed of bok choy).

The Dining Room at Balthazar

Finally, on my last evening, I joined one of my fave fashionista couples, Stan Chopin and Kalinka, at Balthazar.  A hit from the minute Keith McNally opened it, Balthazar was exactly as we’d remembered it (though none of us had been, in at least five years).  Every seat was taken; the service was friendly; and the electricity in the room was palpable.  Balthazar still features one of the City’s best raw bars, and the food remains hearty and wonderful. 

The Raw Bar at Balthazar

Across from us, one of the winners from that night’s CLIO Awards was celebrating with friends (the golden statuette, in the center of the table), and ordered a Balthazar (equivalent to sixteen 750mL bottles) of Sir Winston Churchill’s favorite bubbly, Champagne Pol Roger.  I love it – a Balthazar at Balthazar!

The Balthazar Cookbook

Highlights of the meal included Steak Tartare, Onion Soup Gratinee, Steak Frites (with maître d’ butter and fries), and Duck Confit (with crispy potatoes, wild mushrooms, and frisée salad).

I’m glad I chose to revisit these longtime gastronomic “friends” for my dining needs.  There’s a damned good reason that places like these are still doing great business.  Simply put, in today’s world of the next-best-thing and blink-or-you-miss-it happenings, it’s nice to know that even in a city like New York, good food and good service are still the key ingredients for any successful restaurant. 

Meanwhile, here's a tip - if they've published a signature cookbook, someone's gotta be keen on whatever's coming outta the kitchen!

Get into it!