When I was a young (and thin) lad of 17, I spent a summer, in Nice, France. It was a fantastic few months, although school wasn’t exactly foremost on my mind; prompting my mother to observe, upon visiting, that I was “majoring in plage and discotheque” (nice work, if you can get it). My time on the Cote d’Azure consisted of many lunches along the famed Promenade des Anglais and the Rue Mayerbeer, in brasseries serving delicious brick-oven margherita pizzas, salades Niçoises, and “Coca Lite” with their dining room decorated with dark woods, walls of veined mirrors, and polished railings of brass; with one wall open to the street, letting the sun shine in.
So, when Amy Sacco, my sister from another mister, invited me to join her for a Sunday Rosé Brunch à deux, at La Promenade des Anglais, located at Chelsea’s famed London Terrace Gardens, I said “Sure!” (I wasn’t quite sure what a “Rosé Brunch” was, but it sounded rather fabulous. Turns out, it’s any brunch where you drink a lot of rosé…)
I got there a couple of minutes early, and sat at the bar next to a couple that was almost unnervingly attractive. What really had me staring was the key-fob from Gaudin Jaguar, sitting in front of them on the bar. Being the shy type that I am, I resisted the urge to inquire. Only later was I to find that the man was Chef/Proprietor Alain Allegretti and the keys belonged to his girlfriend, Julia, who told me later that she had moved from Las Vegas. How small is my world?
Allegretti is more than just a really, really pretty face (seriously – are chefs the new pin-ups?). After working in and overseeing kitchens from Nice (Le Chantecler) to Monte Carlo (Louis XV) to New York (Le Cirque 2000 and Atelier), he’s put together a delightful homage to his hometown of Nice. From the sultry blue velour of the booths that brings to mind the Mediterranean, to the timeless black-and-white marble checkerboard floors, to the ceiling with its glorious mural by French artist Fanny Allié that depicts the rocky beaches palm trees and art deco vibe of the restaurant’s namesake boulevard.
I love a one-page menu; and even more, a one-page menu where everything is delicious! Like most things on the Cote d’Azure, the food, while essentially French, is heavily influenced by its close proximity to Italy. Promenade’s menu is no different. Brunch was a mouth-watering, delectable parade of one tasty plate after another.
We started by sharing orders of the Burrata (with Maldon sea salt, cracked pepper, and extra virgin olive oil), that I relished down to the last scoop on e.v.o.o.-soaked country bread, and the wonderfully crispy/tender Fried Gnocchi. From here, we diverged. I went with the Seared Tuna Sandwich (with prosciutto, avocado, red onion, and spicy mayo) which was nothing short of sublime. I know, I’m wont to pepper my words with hyperbole, but if you savor no other sandwich the next time you’re in La Grand Pomme, make Chef Allegretti’s Seared Tuna your one and only. Meanwhile, Sacco stuck with the breakfast mode, and ordered the Poached Eggs “Riviera Style” (with oven-dried prosciutto, crispy panisse, and peperonata). I don’t eat eggs, but she raved about them. We both devoured the Roasted Potatoes with Rosemary, with gusto.
Desert for me was a cheerful Vanilla Pot de Crème (with passion fruit, served with orange sugar cookies), and for Amy was a Guanaja Chocolate Mousse (with salted caramel, feuilletine, and marshmallow, served with hazelnut gelato) that she described as tasting like a gourmet Mallomar.
The food and décor would’ve made this a strong B+ meal, but the service (particularly the amiable personal attention given by General Manager James Morrison), and the ambience – provided by the Avalon Jazz Band – (not to mention the two-hour chin-wag between me and my companion), made this brunch an A, hands-down.
All told, the Sunday Jazz Brunch at La Promenade des Anglais is the closest thing to day-dining at the Negresco, short of schlepping to JFK and hoping a flight on Air France.
Sunday Jazz Brunch
La Promenade des Anglais
Chelsea – New York
Click HERE for info
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