A Heavenly Brunch at Olivia

Chef James Holmes (Photo: John D)

Sunday, for brunch, Jacob and I took my mom to Olivia.  Ranked one of “2009’s Top Ten Best New Restaurants in America” by Bon Appetit, and written-up everywhere from Fearless Critic to the Wall Street Journal, I was keen to see what all of the fuss was about.  Yes, I liked that Chef James Holmes gets his mojo from the vegetable garden that grows behind the restaurant, as well as from supporting “local farmers, ranchers, foragers and artisans” – but the whole organic “green” thing is pretty de rigueur, these days.  What really got me jazzed was one look at the menu that I saw, online.  I was sold in a second, and began salivating from three states away.

Olivia

It certainly didn’t hurt that it was a beautiful Austin morning.  The sky was blue with fluffy white clouds, and the sun was shining.  As we walked into the beautifully designed building, we saw people chatting at their tables on the patio.  A young man exiting the restaurant held the door for us, and we walked inside.  We approached the counter and were immediately seated by the hostess in a booth, as I’d requested.  Our server, Zelda, came over, said "Hello," took our drink order and whisked off to get things started. 

Sarah's Sunday Sinner Fried Sinnamon Roll

Within just a few moments, she was back at the booth, and answering all of our questions about the menu.  Could we substitute this for that (yes, of course), can this be prepared like this (however you’d like), is this really as good as it sounds (better, actually), and so on.  After we got our culinary bearings, we ordered a round of starters and got things under way, while pondering our entrees.  Then, once Zelda had gotten that part of our order placed, she came back, and we ordered the rest of our meal. 

Kitchen at Olivia

The starters came out hot, fresh and delicious.  The House-cured Bacon was smokey and firm, the House-made Sausage Links were juicy and spicy, and Sarah’s Sunday Sinner Fried Sinnamon Roll was hands-down the most scrumptious pastry I’ve ever had – anywhere.  Coincidentally, as we were staving off each other’s forks over the Sinnamon Roll (I’m sure sparks could be seen from the other tables, and I nearly lost a finger…), the family at the table next to us had proceeded to all hold hands and bow their heads.  While I’m certain that they were saying Grace as a ritual they practiced at every meal, I can’t help but think that perhaps they were praying for the souls of the heathens who were savagely scavenging over a tasty morsel named for sin.  Hey.  Stranger things have happened, and it IS the Bible Belt.  I’m just saying… 

"Picnic Style" Fried Chicken

I also had the good sense (upon Zelda’s recommendation) to order the “Picnic Style” Fried Chicken with Potato Salad and House Pickle, for the table.  Served at room temperature (ergo, “picnic style”), this sealed the meal-deal for us.  And we hadn’t even made it to the entrees, yet!  Crispy and zesty on the outside, moist and delicious within, it’s exactly what you want in a fried chicken (or, at least what I want). 

Buttermilk Pancakes with Citrus-Almond Syrup

The entrees arrived and they were as good as we’d hoped with the build-up from our starters.  One would think there was nowhere to go, but down – but the kitchen at Olivia stayed the course.  Mom’s Buttermilk Pancakes with Citrus-Almond Syrup, Berries, and Whipped Cream were as light as can be, and not the heavy doughy mess that can leave a fellow dragging for the rest of the day.  Jacob says his Farm Spinach Omelette with Avocado, Red Onion, Feta and Toast was “Gooo-oood!”  As I don’t eat eggs, I have to take him at his word.   

Bison & Beef Sausage Plate with Biscuits, Garlic Gravy, and Olivia Garden Tomatoes

I had the Bison & Beef Sausage Plate with Biscuits, Garlic Gravy, and Olivia Garden Tomatoes.  First of all, I’m just thankful to live in a world with Garlic Gravy.  Furthermore, I think that everything in the world should come smothered in Garlic Gravy.  It’s that good.  Now, usually, I’m not a fan of the biscuit.  This is probably a big surprise to many who know me, but it’s true.  Well, scratch that, because the chefs at Olivia can butter my biscuit anytime (although, perhaps it was that they were smothered in that incredible Garlic Gravy…).  The Olivia Garden Tomatoes were such a gorgeous hue, and seasoned so delicately that they positively glistened on the plate, danced on the palate, and shimmied into my waiting tummy.  "But what about the Sausages?” you’re probably wondering.  Now, I’m a big lover of sausage.  Normally, I favor a spicy andouille sausage, though that could be a remnant of my time spent in New Orleans.  But these sausages are truly something special.  My eyes were watering, my scalp was sweating, and my throat was burning – but I didn’t care: they were that good.   

By the way, I found something to quash those tasty flames.  Any guesses?  Well, if you guessed Biscuits in Garlic Gravy, then pack your bags and get to Austin – and Olivia – prontito!  You’ve got a whole lot of eating to do.

Olivia 
2043 South Lamar Boulevard 
Austin, Texas 
www.Olivia-Austin.com 
 
Get into it!